Tea History

This page includes teeny tiny pieces of tea-related history. It is NOT intended to be comprehensive; it's just some facts I found to be interesting.


Some believe that tea history should be divided into 3 stages: 

* Brick tea - Tea that was compressed and baked. (As well as the time before that when the unprocessed leaves were consumed in water.)

* Whipped - Tea that was ground and whipped to a frothy beverage.

* Steeping - Tea leaves are steeped in hot water.


China


According to lore, tea as a beverage was discovered in 2737 BC when leaves from a tea plant fell into the cup of hot water Emperor Shen Nung was drinking. However, the Illustrated Encyclopedia of Prehistoric Man (Jelinek, K. 1978), suggests that homo erectus consumed Camellia sinensis in boiling water by the time of the Paleolitic Period (about 500,000 years ago)! Archaeological evidence supports this belief. (Martin)

Originally, tea was made by boiling green tea leaves in water. The practice evolved to include toasting the leaves, crushing them, and steeping them in chinaware teapots.

In the 8th century, during the T'ang Dynasty, the finest tea was from Yang-Hsein, near Shanghai. An envoy was sent to inspect it and the Emperor loved it. He forced peasants to plant tea for tribute instead of rice that could feed their families. The rice and vegetable harvests were damaged causing hunger and famine. (Martin)

In 780 AD the first book about tea was written, Ch'a Ching, by Lu Yu. Lu Yu is known as the "Father of Tea," "Deity of Tea," "Sage of Tea," or "Immortal of Tea." This 3 volume, 10 part book became the basis for the entire culture of tea in China with strong connections to Taoism. His description of afternoon tea required 24 different instruments and accessories.

In Lu's time, tea was called the "Jade Queen" and it was considered to represent the universe's mysteries. (Israel) At the time, tea came in compressed form and the bricks were used as currency. A piece would be broken off this compressed "brick"and steeped in boiling water. The brew would be flavored with everything from dates to peppermint to onions!

Tea was integrally tied with the practice of Buddhism in China. As Buddhism lost favor with the government at the end of the T'ang Dynasty, so did tea.

During the Sung (Tsung, Song) Dynasty (960 - 1279 AD) a switch was made from compressed tea to ground tea leaves. These ground leaves would be whipped into a frothy brew. Tea was drunk from low ceramic saucers in blue, brown, or purple. (Israel) Demands for tribute tea were renewed during this time. The emperor demanded tea from the Fujian Province from the Pei-Yuan garden, plucked using imperial methods. The imperial requirements were becoming more and more strict over time. Some tea actually became more valuable than gold per ounce.

The Tea and Horse Caravan Road was built during the Sung Dynasty to take the tea to Tibet and other regions to trade for horses. In a single year, as many 20,000 war horses from Tibet were traded for 15 million kg of Chinese tea (33 million + pounds). As demand grew throughout the Chinese empire (among the Mongols, Tartars, Turks, and Tibetans) the Chinese Court began using tea as a method of control -- withholding and releasing it to bring groups into line. (Martin) During this time, Emperor Hui (Hwe) (Emperor from 1101 - 1126 AD) spent time developing rare tea varieties and composed a document about 20 kinds of tea, including white tea.

Tea was brought West during the Ming Dynasty (1368 - 1644 AD). This was a time of maritime exploration. Ships traveled to present day Vietnam, Java and Sumatra (Indonesia), Sri Lanka, and to Africa's east coast. Tea was a popular trade item. Then China entered a period of isolation. (Martin) Tea vessels at this time were now more commonly light-colored porcelain.

China was the only tea exporter and the process for getting tea through the treacherous mountains to the boats tor shipment was extremely dangerous. The journey took nearly 6 weeks. Some plantations were as far as 1200 miles from the Canton port. The "chops" (bundles or chests of tea) were carried across the mountains by laborers called "coolies". The "chops" weighed up to 300 pounds per person - so heavy that the coolies would have to stop every 100 yards or so and use crutches to hold the load. (If they had put down their burdens they never could have lifted them again.) Once on board, the sea journey could take months. (Martin)

In the early days of tea exportation, China only wanted to deal in heavy metals. (This led to a great deal of silver being stripped by the Europeans from South America and Mexico for trade.) The East India Company decided to beging growing poppies in India in order to produce opium for trade with China. (Martin)

Only green tea was produced until the start of the 17th century when black tea was processed for export to the West. (Martin)

According to William H. Ukers The Romance of Tea, published in 1936, teapots were not used in the early part of the 20th century in China. Tea was infused in a handleless cup with a cover that looked much like an inverted saucer. No milk or sugar was used. To drink, one would lift the cover with their index finger and sip, keeping the leaves in the cup. Tea houses of this time would serve two cups. A larger cup (1/2 pint) for brewing that had a notched cover and a "thimble cup", smaller than a demitasse, which the tea would be poured into for drinking.



Japan


Tea seeds came to Japan from a Japanese Buddhist, Dengyo Daishi in 805. He had been studying in China and returned to Japan the year of Lu Yu's death. (See above.)

In the early 1300s the concept of a "tea tournament" or tōchawas developed. Teas were presented and the contestants were challenged to identify where the tea had come from. In early days competitors tried to differentiate between "genuine tea" (honcha), which was defined as tea from Toganoo (a region of Kyoto, Japan.) As competition became stiffer they had to identify tea by region, plantation, and specific name!These tournaments were named for the number of teas offered "10 bowl," "50 bowl," or even "100 bowl." The event could start in the early morning and go deep into the night. The winner of the tournament would win a prize, usually one of the valuable items that decorated the tea pavilion. Sharing cups was an absolute necessity as a 50 cup tōcha with 50 guests would have required 2500 cups! (Pratt, Tanaka)

By the 15th century, love of tea had grown to a full-blown movement called teaism. It was a belief system founded on the worship of the natural world, simplicity, and harmony.


Korea


Tea drinking in Korea began at the end of the 4th century. (Other sources say it was the 6th or 7th century.)  It was brought by the Buddhist monks from China and used to keep alert during meditation. (Martin)

In the early 1000's it was drunk at special occasions like weddings.  As interest in Buddhism declined in the early 1400s, interest in tea also declined.  Most tea gardens were destroyed. (Martin)



Europe and British Empire


The earliest known mention of tea in Europe was published in Venice in Chai Catai translates roughly to “Tea of China”. Catai was a name given to northeastern Asia at this time, including Mongolia and northern China. Chai was a variation of ch’a, the name by which tea is still called in India, Afghanistan, Iran, and elsewhere.

It is thought that the first European to encounter tea was a Portuguese Jesuit Father, Jasper de Cruz, in 1560. He was a missionary on the first commercial trading trip permitted by China from Portugal. (Martin)

Queen Elizabeth I granted a charter on December 31, 1600 to the John Co. (later became the East India Co.) to promote Asian trade. Tea was brought to Europe by the Dutch sometime between 1606 and 1610 (Dutch East India Co.) By 1611, tea became a regular trade item for both the Netherlands and Portugal. (Martin)

In the mid-1600s tea became very popular in Paris. The Dutch brought tea to London in 1657. The British East India Company was struggling against their Dutch and Portuguese competition. The British East India Company was not able to be successful at importing tea until 1669.

Tea became popular in England when the Portuguese princess Catherine of Braganza married Charles II of England in 1662 and brought tea to the royal court. The marriage opened new trading routes for the British company with Brazil, the Portuguese Indies and Bombay. They then received the charter that granted then a monopoly on trade with China and India. (Martin)

At the end of the 1600s, the Brits planted tea seeds in chests and brought tea samples from China to England by boat. The plants did survive and some reached maturity but the quality was poor. It took until the mid-1800's for the Brits to become highly successful tea growers. (Beautheac)

In the 17th century, tea drinking in Britain was still uncommon as tariffs , established in 1660, were quite high. Like silks, china, and chocolate, tea became a status symbol because it was so expensive and hard to obtain. The first public sale of tea in Britain was by Thomas Garraway in 1657. (See British Tea House History for more information.) The tariffs were lowered in the 1780s because tea smuggling had become so prevalent. Suddenly demand far outpaced supply. A system of organized crime arose to fill the need. The legitimate tea mongers had trouble competing. (Moxham) Servants in upper class homes used to dry and resell used leaves as well.

Another way demand was met during this time was through the adulteration of teas. Sloe, the fruit of blackthorn, was frequently used to fill out black tea supplies as were the leaves of trees including birch and ash. Hawthorn was used to supplement green tea. In order to color these tea concoctions tannins from other trees were used as were chemicals and pigments like verdigris, ferrous sulfate, and copper carbonate and even dung from sheep! (Moxham)

In the 18th century, England's demand for tea was growing rapidly so it needed to increase its trading capacity with the only tea source: China. China desired silver but England hit upon a new plan. They began trading opium for tea, requiring farmers in India to grow poppies instead of food, resulting in widespread hunger in India and addiction in China. The resulting Opium Wars caused a tragic toll in China. (more info to come...) (Martin)

In 1823, the East India Company learned that there was a wild tea plant in Assam, India. The plant was located and over time the area was cleared to form a tea plantation. The hope was that by developing strong tea production in India, reliance on trade with China would be reduced. The East India Company even had its own army and it fought in India for land. It was eventually granted a monopoly by the Indian government. India eventually changed from a trading partner to an imperial colony. (Martin)

Lord Bentinck, Governor of India in 1828, set up a "Tea Committee" in 1834 which included representatives from East India Company, Indian tea dealers, and two Indian citizens. This committee sowed the seeds for the first tea estates in the British Empire. They then sent botanists to China to collect plants, research growing methods, and to bring growers to help start plantations in India.

n the mid to late 1800s, tea plants were brought from Assam to Sri Lanka (under British rule from 1795 to 1948) after experimental plantings in the early part of the century began to show promise. They tried both the Chinese variety and the Assam variety. The Chinese plants did not produce quality tea but the assamica varietal flourished. The production of tea in Sri Lanka (Ceylon) took off when the coffee industry there was decimated by a plant fungus in 1869. (Beautheac)

In 1850, Thomas Lipton was born in Glasgow, Scotland. He worked in his family's grocery store until he was 15 and moved to the US. There he worked on plantations and then in the food section of a department store in New York. In 1869 he returned to Scotland and started his own business (because his father was resistant to making any changes to the family business.) By 1880 he had 20 general stores. Ten years later he owned 300 stores. He was a master of self-promotion and advertising. He traveled to Colombo, Sri Lanka and purchased 4 plantations following the collapse of the coffee industry. He added innovations to these gardens including rolling machines, dryers, and transportation systems. He began offering tea in packets of standard weight and quality, lowering the price by selling directly. He created tea blends that were formulated for the water quality of particular towns. By 1894 he had a London staff of 500 and 10,000 employees in the plantations, factories, stores, and warehouses. He brought Lipton tea to the US market in the late 1800s and it has stayed popular ever since. (Beautheac)

It goes without saying that tea's popularity in Europe, and particularly Britain, continued through the ages. Beginning in 1927 there was even a "Tea in the Air" service offered by Imperial Airways Ltd. in England. Flights flew from London to Paris, May through October. (Ukers)



United States


Tea came to New York as immigrants traveled from Europe. Thus, tea drinking evolved withe same cultural traditions as in Britain, the Netherlands, and Russia.

Coffee houses and tea gardens were developed as in London and they often even had the same names.

In Boston and Philadelphia, silver and porcelain tea services became important symbols of status. (Pettigrew)

In the early 1700's, scented green teas from China were the most popular teas.

In the 1760s, tea was the third largest import after textiles and manufactured goods.

The Boston tea party took place on December 16, 1773. In protest of the high British tea tariffs, colonists dressed as Native Americans, boarded ship, and threw 340 chests of tea into Boston Harbor. The event was repeated in other cities throughout the colonies. (Stella)

In 1893, Ceylon tea was introduced to the US and the world market at the World's Fair in Chicago. More than 1,000,00 packets were sold. (Stella)

In the early 1900s most US tea came from China and in the Midwest green tea was most prevalent. Indian tea was brought to the US during the St. Louis World's Fair in 1904. Englishman Richard Blechynden was the importer. It was very, very hot during the fair and few were interested in a hot beverage. He decided to pour it over ice and market it as a cold beverage. Iced tea was invented and has continued to grow in popularity. (And Midwesterners still love green tea. In the early 1980's Lipton was still selling their only green tea product there.) (Pratt)


Sources of Information for this Page


Israel, Andrea – Taking Tea: The Essential Guide to Brewing, Serving, and Entertaining with Teas from around the World – 1987 – Weidenfeld & Nicolson: New York, NY

Martin, Laura C. - Tea: The Drink that Changed the World - 2007 - Tuttle Publishing: North Clarendon, VT

Moxham, Roy – Tea: Addiction, Exploitation, and Empire – 2003 – Carroll & Graf Publishers: New York, NY

Pettigrew, Jane – The Tea Companion: A Connoisseur’s Guide – 1997 – Running Press: Philadelphia, London

Pratt, James Norwood – Tea Lover’s Treasury – 1982 – Cole Group: Santa Rosa, CA

Stella, Alain, Nadine Beautheac, et al. - The Book of Tea - 1992 - Flammarion: Paris and New York

Tanaka, Sen’ō and Sendō Tanaka – The Tea Ceremony – 1998 – Kodansha International: Tokyo, New York and London

Ukers, William H. – The Romance of Tea: An Outline History of Tea and Tea-Drinking through Sixteen Hundred Years – 1936 – Alfred A. Knopf: New York, NY



KAM, Copyright 2007
Last update March 2011